INGREDIENT SAFETY REPORT · 2026

Is Oakmoss Safe in Perfume?

INCI: Evernia Prunastri Extract · Natural Lichen Extract · Also known as: Evernia Prunastri, Mousse de chêne, Tree moss (related)

QUICK ANSWER

Oakmoss is safe at strictly-regulated levels but is one of the most heavily IFRA-restricted materials in perfumery because it is a significant allergen. It is the classic base of chypre fragrances. Modern versions use low-atranol oakmoss to reduce the sensitising compounds.

Safety Score / 100

RESTRICTED — KNOWN SENSITISER

What It Is

Oakmoss is an extract of Evernia prunastri, a lichen that grows on oak trees. For over a century it was the indispensable foundation of the 'chypre' family (bergamot–labdanum–oakmoss) and countless classic masculine fragrances. Its two main allergenic components, atranol and chloroatranol, led to severe IFRA restriction in the 2000s.

What It Smells Like

Dark, damp, earthy and forest-floor green, with inky, slightly leathery and mineral facets. Oakmoss provides depth, shadow and a sophisticated 'vintage' character that nothing else fully replicates — its restriction is the main reason old fragrances smell different today.

REGULATORY STATUS

European Union

Heavily restricted. Atranol and chloroatranol (the sensitising components of oakmoss) are effectively banned above 0.0001%. Declarable allergen. This forced the reformulation of most classic chypres.

United States (FDA)

Permitted in fragrance, but most global houses follow the stricter EU/IFRA limits regardless of market.

IFRA (Industry Standard)

Strongly restricted. IFRA limits oakmoss to very low levels and requires that it contain less than 100 ppm of atranol/chloroatranol combined. 'Low-atranol' oakmoss is the modern compliant form.

HEALTH & SAFETY FLAGS

Declared Allergen

Oakmoss is one of the most clinically significant fragrance allergens. Atranol and chloroatranol are potent contact sensitisers, which is why regulators acted so aggressively. If you have a confirmed fragrance allergy, oakmoss is among the most likely culprits in older or vintage scents.

Pregnancy: Consult Doctor

At today's strictly-limited compliant levels, oakmoss exposure in modern perfume is low. Vintage fragrances may contain much higher legacy concentrations. If pregnant and sensitive, favour modern reformulated versions and consult your doctor.

Sensitive Skin

Anyone with sensitive or allergy-prone skin should approach oakmoss-rich chypres — especially vintage bottles — with caution and patch-test first. This is the single most important note to watch if you react to 'old-fashioned' perfumes.

FRAGRANCES CONTAINING OAKMOSS

Aventus

Creed · Eau de Parfum

Eros

Versace · Eau de Toilette

Ombre Leather

Tom Ford · Eau de Parfum

Invictus

Paco Rabanne · Eau de Toilette

This safety report is compiled from EU Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009, US FDA guidance, and IFRA standards. It is for general education and is not medical advice. If you have a diagnosed fragrance allergy or are pregnant, consult a dermatologist or doctor. Reviewed by the La Maison AdeGbe Fragrance Research Team · Updated May 2026.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Is oakmoss safe in perfume?

Oakmoss is safe only at the very low levels modern regulation permits. It is one of the most significant fragrance allergens — its components atranol and chloroatranol are potent skin sensitisers — which is why IFRA and the EU restrict it heavily. Modern 'low-atranol' oakmoss is the compliant, safer form.

Why was oakmoss banned?

Oakmoss was not fully banned but was severely restricted because its natural components atranol and chloroatranol are strong contact allergens causing dermatitis. The EU effectively capped these compounds, forcing classic chypre fragrances to be reformulated.

Why do vintage perfumes smell different now?

Largely because of oakmoss restriction. The dark, earthy, mossy base that defined classic chypres and fougères had to be reduced or replaced to meet allergen limits, so modern reformulations smell cleaner and less shadowy than their vintage versions.

Is oakmoss safe during pregnancy?

Modern compliant oakmoss levels are low, but vintage fragrances may contain much more. If pregnant and prone to skin reactions, favour modern reformulated fragrances and consult your doctor before regular use of heavily-mossy scents.

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