50,000+ Reviewed · Honest Dupes · Find Your Scent →
ADEGBE
BACK TO DIRECTORY
ChanelEau de Parfum · EST. 1986

No. 5 Eau de Parfum

The most famous fragrance in history. Ernest Beaux's revolutionary aldehydic floral pairs an abstract bouquet of rose and jasmine with a soapy aldehyde sparkle and a warm sandalwood-vanilla base.

NOSE: Ernest BeauxRELEASED: 1986RETAIL: $110 - $165
The Quick Answer

No. 5 Eau de Parfum opens on Aldehydes and Bergamot, moves through May Rose and Jasmine, and dries down to Sandalwood and Vanilla. At $110 - $165 it is a designer-tier price you pay for the name as much as the juice, with long lasting (7h - 9h) on skin. A relatively safe blind buy for most wardrobes.

ADEGBE ANALYSIS SCORES

8.1
Expert
7.8
Longevity
7.5
Sillage
8.4
Versatility
8.6
Value

Scores are AdeGbe's editorial analysis based on composition, concentration and community-reported performance — not a single personal wear test.

Approx. $1.10/ml — Based on the lowest street price ($110) over an assumed 100ml bottle for this concentration.

OLFACTORY PYRAMID BREAKDOWN

TOP NOTESFirst impression · 15–30 min
  • Aldehydes
  • Bergamot
  • Lemon
  • Neroli
HEART NOTESCore character · 2–4 hours
  • May Rose
  • Jasmine
  • Ylang Ylang
  • Iris
BASE NOTESDry-down · 6–24+ hours
  • Sandalwood
  • Vanilla
  • Vetiver
  • Patchouli

EXPERT ANALYSIS — COMPOSITION & PERFORMANCE

AG
AdeGbe Fragrance Research Team Data-Driven Analysis
Olfactory composition & performance assessment
Updated Autumn 2026Eau de ParfumMethodology: note-pyramid analysis + community performance data + AdeGbe scoring model

No. 5 Eau de Parfum is Chanel's 1986 eau de parfum from perfumer Ernest Beaux. Our analysis examines its three-phase structure, its longevity and projection profile, and the occasions it serves best.

The Opening

It opens on Aldehydes, Bergamot, Lemon, a bright citrus and soft musk introduction that sets expectations before the heart emerges.

The Heart

Beneath the opening, a floral heart of May Rose, Jasmine, Ylang Ylang forms the signature most people will recognise.

The Dry-Down

The dry-down anchors on a dry woods and sweet gourmand base of Sandalwood, Vanilla, Vetiver, the phase that clings closest to skin and lasts longest.

Projected Performance Timeline
Hour 1
Aldehydes and Bergamot opening. Strong, room-filling projection.
Hour 4
May Rose and Jasmine heart fully developed. Still projecting clearly.
Hour 8
Sandalwood and Vanilla base emerges. Performance holding well.
Hour 10
Soft base notes still detectable close to skin.
Longevity
7.8/10
Sillage
7.5/10
Blind Buy
LOW RISK
Final Score
8.9/10

Who Should Buy No. 5 Eau de Parfum

No. 5 Eau de Parfum leans feminine but is wearable by anyone who enjoys the style. Its season vector points strongest to autumn, and its day/night balance makes it best suited to versatile day-to-night wear. If you gravitate toward bright citrus and floral compositions and want strong longevity, it belongs on your shortlist.

One Honest Warning

Performance and quality are not in question here. The honest caveat is ubiquity: No. 5 Eau de Parfum is widely worn, so if smelling distinctive matters more to you than smelling excellent, factor that in.

Analysis based on composition, community-aggregated performance data, and the AdeGbe scoring model.A human skin-test review is added as our team tests each fragrance.

PERFORMANCE INDEX & SUITABILITY VECTORS

LONGEVITY FACTORLong Lasting (7h - 9h)
Weak (1h)Moderate (4-6h)Beast (24h+)
SILLAGE / PROJECTIONModerate to Strong
IntimateModerateEnormous
DAY · NIGHT SUITABILITY
DAY
45%
NIGHT
55%
GENDER INDEXFeminine
FEMININEUNISEXMASCULINE
SEASON SUITABILITY VECTOR
SPRING 🌸25%
SUMMER ☀️20%
AUTUMN 🍂30%
WINTER ❄️25%

PROJECTED PERFORMANCE TIMELINE

Projected from this fragrance's concentration, note structure and reported longevity — an analysis, not a single personal wear test.

Hour 1
Top burst

Aldehydes and Bergamot lead the opening before the volatile top notes burn off.

Projection: Strong
Hour 4
Heart in bloom

May Rose and Jasmine take over as the core character of the fragrance.

Projection: Strong
Hour 8
Early dry-down

Sandalwood and Vanilla anchor the scent close to the skin.

Projection: Moderate
Hour 12
Base residue

A skin-scent of Sandalwood and Vanilla is what typically remains by now.

Projection: Skin-close

Wear It

  • ✓Autumn / Fall (30% seasonal fit)
  • ✓Spring (25% seasonal fit)
  • ✓Winter (25% seasonal fit)
  • ✓Flexible across day and night

Skip It

  • ✗Few hard limits — a fairly easy all-rounder

Blind-Buy Risk

7/100SAFE
Risk factors
  • • Fresh, broadly-likeable profile lowers the risk of disappointment
In its favour
  • • Clean citrus/fresh structures are widely accepted and rarely offend.

INGREDIENT SAFETY SNAPSHOT

Linalool / Limonene

Common EU-declarable allergens; can oxidise and irritate sensitive skin.

Benzyl Salicylate / Benzyl Benzoate

White-floral declarables; usually well tolerated but listed under EU rules.

Benzyl Benzoate (fixative)

Generally well-tolerated base/fixative materials with low sensitiser risk.

This snapshot is based on the published note list, not a full INCI ingredient breakdown. Always check the box for the official allergen declaration and patch-test if you have sensitive skin. See full ingredient-safety guides →

MOST COMPARED WITH

Shares Ylang Ylang & Bergamot
No. 5 Eau de Parfum vs Black Orchid
Tom FordSame house — Chanel
No. 5 Eau de Parfum vs Coco Mademoiselle Eau de Parfum
ChanelSame house — Chanel
No. 5 Eau de Parfum vs Coco Noir
Chanel

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

What does Chanel No. 5 EDP smell like?
Chanel No. 5 EDP opens with a sparkling, soapy aldehyde and citrus accord, then reveals an abstract bouquet of May rose, jasmine, and ylang-ylang. It dries down to a warm, powdery sandalwood and vanilla base. It is famously abstract — it does not smell like one specific flower but like an elegant, polished whole.
What is the difference between No. 5 EDT, EDP, and Parfum?
The EDT is brighter and more citrus-aldehydic, the EDP (1986) is warmer and more floral with a creamier base, and the Parfum is the richest, most rounded, and longest-lasting version. The EDP is the most popular everyday choice, balancing the classic character with strong performance and a softer, less sharp opening than the EDT.
Is Chanel No. 5 outdated?
It is a matter of taste. The aldehydic opening can feel old-fashioned to wearers used to modern sweet gourmands, and some find it powdery. However, it remains a timeless classic admired for its craftsmanship and abstraction, and many consider it the most elegant feminine fragrance ever made. It rewards patience as it warms on skin.
Is No. 5 Eau de Parfum worth buying?
For the money, No. 5 Eau de Parfum ($110 - $165) is a fair buy. It projects at a moderate to strong level and lasts in the range of long lasting (7h - 9h), which puts its performance around the average mark. It is worth it if you connect with its Aldehydes and Bergamot character; if you want an all-occasion safe blind buy, sample first because it leans flexible but specific.
Can I wear No. 5 Eau de Parfum to the office?
Yes, within reason. No. 5 Eau de Parfum sits at a moderate moderate to strong projection, which is generally office-friendly with one to two sprays. Apply before you leave home rather than at your desk, and you should stay within polite, non-intrusive range through the working day.
Is No. 5 Eau de Parfum good for summer?
Not really. No. 5 Eau de Parfum scores only 20% for summer — heat tends to amplify its Sandalwood and Vanilla base and push it toward cloying. It performs far better in autumn, so save it for cooler months and reach for something lighter when it is hot.
How many sprays of No. 5 Eau de Parfum should I use?
Two to four sprays suits most people. No. 5 Eau de Parfum has moderate to strong projection, so you can apply a little more generously than a beast-mode scent without crowding others. Spread sprays across pulse points and let it settle; its long lasting (7h - 9h) longevity means you rarely need to reapply.
Is No. 5 Eau de Parfum safe for sensitive skin?
No. 5 Eau de Parfum is an alcohol-based eau de parfum and its note list includes materials such as Aldehydes, Bergamot and Lemon, some of which fall under EU-declarable allergen rules (for example linalool, limonene or coumarin depending on the notes). That does not make it unsafe — most wearers have no reaction — but if your skin is reactive, spray onto clothing or patch-test on the inner arm first. This guidance is based on the published note list, not a full INCI breakdown.

INTERACTIVE FRAGRANCE TOOLS

Personalised calculators and scanners specific to No. 5 Eau de Parfum.

INTERACTIVE FRAGRANCE TOOLS

Personalised calculators and scanners specific to No. 5 Eau de Parfum.

TOP DUPES & AFFORDABLE ALTERNATIVES

Looking for a more affordable scent in the same family as No. 5 Eau de Parfum? Use our free Dupe Finder to match it against thousands of fragrances by note similarity.

Find dupes for No. 5 Eau de Parfum
ADEGBEDRAFTING 3D PERSPECTIVE...
N° ENC-1986No. 5 Eau de ParfumANTI-GRAVITY CONTAINER VISUAL
4.9 RATED

EXPLORE NO. 5 EAU DE PARFUM DEEPER

The House
All Chanel perfumes
Is It Safe?
Is Linalool safe?Is Vanillin safe?
Head-to-Head
vs Black Orchidvs Bleu de Chanel Eau de Parfumvs Chance Eau Tendre
Explore By Note
AldehydesBergamotLemonNeroliMay RoseJasmineYlang YlangIrisSandalwoodVanillaVetiverPatchouli

EXPLORE RELATED PROFILES

Giorgio ArmaniAcqua di Giò ProfumoAmouageAgar AuraMaison Francis KurkdjianBaccarat Rouge 540Tom FordBlack OrchidChanelBleu de Chanel Eau de ParfumChanelChance Eau TendreCreedAventusChristian DiorSauvage Eau de Parfum
VIEW FULL DIRECTORY