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Le LaboEau de Parfum · EST. 2015

Thé Noir 29

A sophisticated black tea fragrance blending bergamot and fig leaf with a smoky tea heart and a dry vetiver, cedar, and tobacco base. Cerebral, dry, and elegant.

NOSE: Frank VoelklRELEASED: 2015RETAIL: $220 - $340
The Quick Answer

Thé Noir 29 opens on Bergamot and Fig Leaf, moves through Black Tea and Hay, and dries down to Vetiver and Cedar. At $220 - $340 it is firmly luxury pricing that demands you love the profile first, with moderate to long lasting (6h - 8h) on skin. A relatively safe blind buy for most wardrobes.

ADEGBE ANALYSIS SCORES

7.0
Expert
7.6
Longevity
6.2
Sillage
9.5
Versatility
5.2
Value

Scores are AdeGbe's editorial analysis based on composition, concentration and community-reported performance — not a single personal wear test.

Approx. $2.20/mlBased on the lowest street price ($220) over an assumed 100ml bottle for this concentration.

OLFACTORY PYRAMID BREAKDOWN

TOP NOTESFirst impression · 15–30 min
  • Bergamot
  • Fig Leaf
  • Bay
HEART NOTESCore character · 2–4 hours
  • Black Tea
  • Hay
  • Fig
BASE NOTESDry-down · 6–24+ hours
  • Vetiver
  • Cedar
  • Tobacco
  • Musk

EXPERT ANALYSIS — COMPOSITION & PERFORMANCE

AG
AdeGbe Fragrance Research Team Data-Driven Analysis
Olfactory composition & performance assessment
Updated Autumn 2026Eau de ParfumMethodology: note-pyramid analysis + community performance data + AdeGbe scoring model

Composed by Frank Voelkl for Le Labo in 2015, Thé Noir 29 sits in the bright citrus space of modern perfumery. Below, our research team breaks down its olfactory structure, measured performance, and ideal wearer.

The Opening

From the first spray, Bergamot, Fig Leaf, Bay establish a bright citrus and green aromatic character that defines the top of the composition.

The Heart

As the top notes settle, the heart turns green aromatic, built around Black Tea, Hay, Fig. This is where the fragrance reveals its true personality, roughly two to four hours in.

The Dry-Down

Hours later it resolves into a dry woods and smoky incense foundation — Vetiver, Cedar, Tobacco — that determines the lasting memory of the scent.

Projected Performance Timeline
Hour 1
Bergamot and Fig Leaf opening. Moderate, arm's-length projection.
Hour 4
Black Tea and Hay heart fully developed. Still projecting clearly.
Hour 8
Vetiver and Cedar base emerges. Performance holding well.
Hour 10
Soft base notes still detectable close to skin.
Longevity
7.6/10
Sillage
6.2/10
Blind Buy
LOW RISK
Final Score
8.7/10

Who Should Buy Thé Noir 29

Thé Noir 29 is genuinely unisex. Its season vector points strongest to autumn, and its day/night balance makes it best suited to versatile day-to-night wear. If you gravitate toward bright citrus and green aromatic compositions and want strong longevity, it belongs on your shortlist.

One Honest Warning

No major red flags in the composition, but fragrance is personal — skin chemistry can shift the balance of notes, so a sample wear is always wiser than a blind purchase at this price.

Analysis based on composition, community-aggregated performance data, and the AdeGbe scoring model.A human skin-test review is added as our team tests each fragrance.

PERFORMANCE INDEX & SUITABILITY VECTORS

LONGEVITY FACTORModerate to Long Lasting (6h - 8h)
Weak (1h)Moderate (4-6h)Beast (24h+)
SILLAGE / PROJECTIONModerate / Intimate
IntimateModerateEnormous
DAY · NIGHT SUITABILITY
DAY
55%
NIGHT
45%
GENDER INDEXShared / Unisex
FEMININEUNISEXMASCULINE
SEASON SUITABILITY VECTOR
SPRING 🌸25%
SUMMER ☀️20%
AUTUMN 🍂35%
WINTER ❄️20%

PROJECTED PERFORMANCE TIMELINE

Projected from this fragrance's concentration, note structure and reported longevity — an analysis, not a single personal wear test.

Hour 1
Top burst

Bergamot and Fig Leaf lead the opening before the volatile top notes burn off.

Projection: Strong
Hour 4
Heart in bloom

Black Tea and Hay take over as the core character of the fragrance.

Projection: Strong
Hour 8
Early dry-down

Vetiver and Cedar anchor the scent close to the skin.

Projection: Moderate
Hour 12
Base residue

A skin-scent of Vetiver and Cedar is what typically remains by now.

Projection: Skin-close

Wear It

  • Autumn / Fall (35% seasonal fit)
  • Spring (25% seasonal fit)
  • Flexible across day and night

Skip It

  • Few hard limits — a fairly easy all-rounder

Blind-Buy Risk

7/100SAFE
Risk factors
  • Fresh, broadly-likeable profile lowers the risk of disappointment
In its favour
  • Clean citrus/fresh structures are widely accepted and rarely offend.

INGREDIENT SAFETY SNAPSHOT

Linalool / Limonene

Common EU-declarable allergens; can oxidise and irritate sensitive skin.

Coumarin

IFRA-restricted; coumarin sources carry a general pregnancy-caution flag.

Benzyl Benzoate (fixative)

Generally well-tolerated base/fixative materials with low sensitiser risk.

This snapshot is based on the published note list, not a full INCI ingredient breakdown. Always check the box for the official allergen declaration and patch-test if you have sensitive skin. See full ingredient-safety guides →

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

What does Le Labo Thé Noir 29 smell like?
It is a realistic smoky black tea fragrance with fig leaf and bay up top, a dry tea and hay heart, and a vetiver, cedar, and tobacco base. Dry, elegant, and unisex.
Does Thé Noir 29 project strongly?
No — it is fairly intimate, staying closer to the skin than many niche fragrances. It rewards close-range encounters rather than filling a room.
Is Thé Noir 29 unisex?
Yes. Its dry, tea-driven, slightly smoky profile sits squarely between masculine and feminine and is widely worn by all genders.
Is Thé Noir 29 worth buying?
For the money, Thé Noir 29 ($220 - $340) is a considered purchase. It projects at a moderate / intimate level and lasts in the range of moderate to long lasting (6h - 8h), which puts its performance around the average mark. It is worth it if you connect with its Bergamot and Fig Leaf character; if you want an all-occasion safe blind buy, sample first because it leans flexible but specific.
Can I wear Thé Noir 29 to the office?
Yes, within reason. Thé Noir 29 sits at a moderate moderate / intimate projection, which is generally office-friendly with one to two sprays. Apply before you leave home rather than at your desk, and you should stay within polite, non-intrusive range through the working day.
Is Thé Noir 29 good for summer?
Not really. Thé Noir 29 scores only 20% for summer — heat tends to amplify its Vetiver and Cedar base and push it toward cloying. It performs far better in autumn, so save it for cooler months and reach for something lighter when it is hot.
How many sprays of Thé Noir 29 should I use?
Two to four sprays suits most people. Thé Noir 29 has moderate / intimate projection, so you can apply a little more generously than a beast-mode scent without crowding others. Spread sprays across pulse points and let it settle; its moderate to long lasting (6h - 8h) longevity means you rarely need to reapply.
Is Thé Noir 29 safe for sensitive skin?
Thé Noir 29 is an alcohol-based eau de parfum and its note list includes materials such as Bergamot, Fig Leaf and Bay, some of which fall under EU-declarable allergen rules (for example linalool, limonene or coumarin depending on the notes). That does not make it unsafe — most wearers have no reaction — but if your skin is reactive, spray onto clothing or patch-test on the inner arm first. This guidance is based on the published note list, not a full INCI breakdown.

INTERACTIVE FRAGRANCE TOOLS

Personalised calculators and scanners specific to Thé Noir 29.

INTERACTIVE FRAGRANCE TOOLS

Personalised calculators and scanners specific to Thé Noir 29.

TOP DUPES & AFFORDABLE ALTERNATIVES

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